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ebony limed buffet, via 1stdibs The last few years I have been getting more requests to "do something" with old furniture pieces, adding ornament, refinishing wood, repairing gilding, etc. I love working on furniture and the special challenges each piece presents. "before" orange varnished oak One of the hardest things to work with is bright orange oak --- a tough one because of the assertive grain among other issues. Oh yes, you can fill it and paint it, but why not find a way to work with it? In this age of cheap laminate furniture, solid wood is something to be celebrated! One project I had recently I took my inspiration from a midcentury piece of cerused oak, also known as limed oak. Inspiration: 1943 Paul Frankl limed oak dresser, at 1stdibs. In the sixteenth century this finish was created to help deter insects and rot in oak beams and paneling, by filling the grain with lime or lead-white and wax, but after a while it became a fashionable way to lighten up and enhance the the look of the wood. Cerused oak finishes were also fashionable in Art Deco and midcentury interiors for furniture, floors, cabinetry, and paneling, and is now once again very much on trend. Note: I am not talking about the pickled "slimy pink" whitewash that was all the rage in the 1980s. A good cerused finish shows the grain in contrast to the rest of the surface. High contrast between the wood and the grain is a really effective look. Please note this is not a technique useful for any kind of soft wood (pine, cedar, redwood, etc.) nor do I advise trying this on any kind of plywood or veneer. Inspiration: circa 1950 James Mont bench in ebony limed oak. I found many instructionals for liming wood on the internet but none with pictures. I like pictures! So I decided to share the process of transforming this orange varnish oak piece into something more fabulous and moderne looking. How to Make a Cerused Oak Finish: Apply Citristrip liberally. 1. Make samples! Don't do this directly on a piece you care about. Always test an area or get some scrap wood to try out your materials! 2. Strip and clean: First, we need to strip off that varnish. I like Citristrip for this kind of thing. Let it sit for at least a half hour then scrub in the direction of the grain with a stiff stripping pad or brush. raising the grain with a brass brush Once you have removed all of the varnish, rinse the wood thoroughly with water. 3. Raise the Grain While the wood is still damp, scrub lightly with a brass brush. Brass will not discolor the wood nor be too rough. If you are starting with raw wood, simply get it wet and scrub it a bit to raise the grain. Rinse thoroughly, then let dry. 4. Light Sanding After the wood is dry, lightly sand to smooth out the top, and get all the dust and bits off with steel wool and/or stiff bristle brush. You should then have a very clean oak surface with pronounced grain pattern. Clean oak with deep grain pattern 5. Dye the Wood Black Make sure your wood is dry, and let's get some color on it! Do not use "stain." Stain will absorb into the softer parts of the wood more than the rest of it. Instead you want to dye it. Apply the dye with a brush, rag, or pad ebonized oak Aniline dye will soak into all the wood evenly without leaving any kind of residue. You may get it in powder form - like raw pigment but much finer ground - to dissolve in water or denatured alcohol. Aniline dyes tend to be opaque, leave no lap marks, and dry quickly. There are also pre-mixed "super penetrating" dyes that use acetone as a vehicle and are very effective. If you buy this kind of thing, please read the MSDS carefully, and wear the proper protection. In some cases you need 2 applications if you want to get a good solid color. *****Note: In this demo I used a dye that I had on hand, but check out this tutorial on how to make your own inexpensive iron acetate to ebonize wood. This natural option for ebonizing wood uses a solution made from steel wool and vinegar, and is an extremely effective and affordable way to blacken the oak.****** 6. Seal the surface: At this point what we have is an evenly dyed, fairly matte, and absorbent surface. It needs to be sealed mainly to make it a bit slicker, which will make the following steps easier. tinting some amber shellac to a clear black Shellac is perfect for this as it will not build up or fill the grain, and it dries quickly. And if the shellac is tinted with a drop of black (or the same color as the dye underneath), it will add to the depth of the finish. In addition to keeping the color from migrating into the wax, the shellac makes it easier to lightly wipe the liming off the surface while leaving it in the grain. Remember too much tint will slow the drying time of the shellac and add volume, so use just few drops. Apply one or two thinned coats of shellac to your surface and allow to dry thoroughly. "liming wax" my home-made mix of wax paste and whiting 7. Liming: Liming wax is available pre-mixed but I made my own by mixing clear microcrystalline wax and whiting (chalk). You can also use white powdered pigment or lime powder mixed into wax paste. Make sure the wax paste you use is a type that will dry fairly hard, and does not turn yellow. filling the grain with liming wax Rubbing the wax into the grain and removing excess Cover the whole surface, use a liberal amount of liming wax and push it into the grain with steel wool or a soft cloth. Immediately wipe off the excess with a soft cloth. Sealing the surface with clear wax Let dry thoroughly. You can repeat the liming if needed, or go straight to sealing. 8. Seal the finish To seal this finish you need only add another layer or two of clear wax, and buff. Microcrystalline wax is made with low odor mineral spirits and dries quickly and quite hard and impervious. finished surface! Options: I have achieved this look using paints and acrylic finishes, but I have to say using more traditional materials makes this far easier and the finish has more depth. It feels very smooth to the touch and is quite durable as a furniture finish, and very easy to maintain. You may also try this finish with different colors. And obviously, the nicer the grain of the wood, the more appealing the finish will look. Lynne Rutter Studio
geminifourth
I have been meaning to share this project and product on my blog for a while. Back in September we upgraded to a king size mattress [and I h...
You may all remember my Goodwill score from a couple years ago - you can read about it HERE ……While I love old pine so much, sometime...
This really is about how to use liming wax, but first I want to share something with you. You might call it TMI, but I think it’s important to put it all into context. Have you been watching the new Poldark series? Apparently I’ve been watching it way too much, because I had a dream […]
About this item Unique specialty wax,Produces a white grained finish,Can also be used to make vivid colors more pastel Creates a piece that appears to have been painted and stripped, 8 ounces finished wood, painted wood,work in the sealed See more product details
Whitewashed the meat bird half of the Chickenhouse today, using the traditional purist blend of nothing but hydrated lime and water. This is an old school…
Liming wax can be used to make pine furniture less orange quite easily. Click here to learn more about applying liming wax on pine furniture.
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